Europe has no shortage of picturesque cities steeped in history and culture, but only a handful of these can claim premier league status. It is no exaggeration to say Florence is somewhere close to the top of this league. It is a truly remarkable place not just for its breathtaking array of magnificent buildings, paintings and sculptures; but also for its profound atmosphere of civility. Here, you feel, is a place where, at least for a time, mankind got civilisation right. Yes, the city’s history is peppered with dark episodes and bitter infighting, but somehow this doesn’t detract from the feeling that Florence is a project that all other towns and cities across the world would do well to learn from.

Florence will always be chiefly associated with The Renaissance, the explosion of creative and intellectual life which had its beginnings in twelfth century and reached its climax in the sixteenth century. Much of the centre of the modern city is made up of buildings from this period, or else buildings inspired by fifteenth and sixteenth century styles. When walking its streets and squares, it is easy to forget that it was the Roman Emperor Julius Caesar who laid the foundations of what became Florence.

Caesar established a Roman colony for army veterans in 59BC around the area where Piazza della Republica now stands. Florentia, as the colony was named, developed rapidly in subsequent centuries as the Arno became a strategic transport hub along which goods and people flowed in ever increasing numbers. During this period the Etruscan civilisation which predated the Romans, continued to decline (the modern ‘Tuscany’ takes its name from Etruscan) and the once vibrant Etruscan hill-town of Fiesole was eventually overtaken in size and power by Florence. By the third century AD, Florence had become a provincial capital of the Roman Empire and Fiesole, once the most important settlement in the region, was more than rivalled by Florence growing in confidence. Fiesole lies only eight kilometres to the north east of Florence and makes for an interesting day trip, particularly welcome in the summer when the air can be a good deal fresher than in heart of the Tuscan capital.

The city’s fortunes declined in the fifth century during a turbulent period of rule by the Ostrogoths who were constantly warring with the Byzantines. The Goths were finally ousted when the Goth King Totila was overthrown by the Lombards, a Germanic people originating from Northern Europe. The Lombards established the Kingdom of Italy and ushered in a period of relative peace until in 774, Frankish forces led by Charlemagne captured the city. Charlemagne was crowned Imperator Augustus (Holy Roman Emperor) Italy in 800 by Pope Leo III and Florence became part of the duchy of Tuscany.

When Margrave Ugo (a Margrave was a kind of regional religious military leader), switched his official residence from Lucca to Florence at the end of the tenth century, it heralded the start of what would become a renaissance in art and architecture. It was in the eleventh century that San Miniato al Monte and the Baptistery of San Giovanni were built, two of the finest examples of Romanesque architecture in Europe. These artistic developments were matched by a rise in confidence amongst the merchant classes who, with the Countess Matilda of the Canossa family, were instrumental in establishing Florence as a commune (independent city state) early in the twelfth century. The commune was governed by a one hundred strong Council, made up of successful merchants, many of who had made their fortunes in the wool trade. The population boomed, rising to over 100,000, making Florence one of the largest cities in Europe at the time.

From the thirteenth century the history of Florence and Tuscany became dominated by the rivalry between two opposing factions – the Guelphs, loosely representing the merchant classes and the Ghibellines, representing the nobility. The Guelphs aligned themselves with the pope, really as a snub to the Emperor who was supported by the Ghibellines. Florence leaned towards the Guelphs whereas Siena was a Ghibelline stronghold; to this day, there is a rivalry between the two cities. The Florentine Guelph faction was in almost full control of the city by the thirteenth century but then split itself into two political factions who fought for power over many decades. The vigorously anti-imperialist ‘Black Gulephs’ eventually prevailed over the more tolerant ‘White Guelphs’ and exiled many local political movers from the city, including the famous author and poet, Dante Alighieri, who was never again a citizen of the city.

At the beginning of the 15th century, Florence was one of the largest and most prosperous towns in Europe having largely recovered from losing half its population to the black death in 1348. By 1400, its population stood at 70,000, not much by today’s standards, but then one of the great European cities, much larger than Paris or London. Florence’s prosperity was driven by a continuing boom in banking and textiles which continued to form the two cornerstones of the Florentine economy. By this time the city’s coin, the florin, had become a pan-European currency and Florentine bankers were staring to have a global reach. As Florence’s banking sector grew ever more successful, so training and education improved in response. Courses were based around the teaching of studia humanitas, much of which was based on classical texts and equipped students with proficiency in five key subjects: history, poetry, grammar, philosophy and rhetoric. This new humanist approach to education, coupled with an increasing understanding of mathematics and accounting, enabled Florence to keep ahead of the game economically, but also helped stimulate a vibrant art scene.

It was in this atmosphere that the Medici dynasty began its rise to prominence, beginning with banker Cosimo di Medici’s (1389-1464) stand against the popolo grasso, the dominant party in the signoria (the city’s council). Cosimo was considered a threat by the powerful Albizzi family of the day who had him exiled to Milan in 1433. Undaunted, and backed by support of the Florentine people and Milanese troops, Cosmo returned the following year and was made ‘first citizen’ of the city. This turned out to be one of the most significant events in Florence’s history as it paved the way for 300 years of largely Medici control of the city. It was during these 300 years that some of the most famous works of art in the world were created, many of which were bankrolled by Medici.

Cosimo was eventually succeeded by his grandson, Lorenzo il Magnifico (1449-92) whose tenure at the top coincided with the apex of renaissance. Lorenzo combined a great love of poetry and art with generous nature which enabled artists to both express themselves freely and also support themselves financially. Lorenzo also kept the peace using his considerable diplomatic skills to prevent conflict from breaking out between Italian states and thereby ensuring Florence itself enjoyed 40 years of relative calm under his leadership (though there were some bitter squabbles with Pope Sixtus IV).

Lorenzo’s skills in banking, did not match his skills in either diplomacy or philanthropism. By the time his son, Piero di Lorenzo took over after Lorenzo’s death in 1492 the Medici were far less well off. Piero was a definite failure by his predecessors standards and after only two years at the helm handed the city over to King Charles VIII and promptly fled the city. Dark days of religious zealotry ensued with Girolamo Savanarola (1452-98) taking charge and conducting the infamous ‘bonfire of the vanities’ in Piazza della Signoria in 1497 when many fine works of art were burned in a gesture against progressive humanist thinking. Savanarola didn’t last long, by the following year his mismanagement of the city and lack of diplomacy saw the city descend into chaos. With disease and starvation rife, the Florentine people meted out justice on Savanarola who was burned at the stake in the same place as the bonfire of the vanities just one year on.

The Medici continued to be involved in the governance of the city in the 16th century through the slow decline of the city until 1737 (see section of ‘Prominent Florentines in History) but the golden age of the family really ended with the death of Lorenzo il Magnifico.

The city passed into French control in 1799 after Napoleon conquered the city and made his sister Elisa Baciocchi Grand Duchess of Tuscany. The city remained under French control (Lorraine Dynasty) until 1859 when it became part of the Kingdom of Italy and was even the capital city for a short time until this passed to Rome in 1870. Since then, the history of Florence has largely that of the history of Italy.